4 Days of Eternal Bliss: Day two -Dig deep into Roman Antiquity

Rested? Ready for your second day of eternal bliss? Today is Roman Antiquity day. We will start with the Palatine. This is the place where according to Roman mythology the twin brothers Romulus and Remus were fed by the she-wolf and where Roman emperors built their palaces. Actually, the very word palace derives from Palatium (as does my name "Palazzo"). We will spend all morning there. So it might be a good idea to bring a snack and a water bottle. There are some fountains inside where you can refill.

So after breakfast you will walk through Parco Traiano toward the Colosseum, but do not go there just, yet. We will do the smart thing and skip the lines at the Colosseum and go straight to the entry of the Palatine. If you are there at 8.30, when they open, there are no lines and the entrance ticket is valid for two days and includes the entrance to the Colosseum, where you can go in holy peace the next day.

I do not recommend the audio guide. Read something about this magic place before or try to get a guide.  Otherwise just wander around and catch the spirit. There is a wonderful view at the Farnese gardens. A perfect spot for a picnic.

From there you can walk down to the Forum Romanum and admire the Vestaline Temple, the Massenzius basilica and all the other amazing ruins. 

If you have enough and are ready for lunch, take the exit in the middle and that will bring you to via Cavour. If you enter via Cavour and go left you will find the Hotel Forum. It has a fabulous roof terrace where you can enjoy a premium view on the Forum and eat some nice Spaghetti alle Vongole.

Hmm, what is next…you are still close to Mecenate Rooms, you walked all morning, had great pasta and some white wine…why not take a little nap before moving on…Very recommendable in the summer heat.

The view form the Hotel Forum terrasse is hard to beat.

If not, take the bus 87 and got to Largo Argentino. From there you can walk to Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Navona. 

The magnificent Fountain of the Four Rivers on Piazza Navona

At the end of piazza Navona, you can turn left and go underground: The piazza has its oval form from an ancient Roman stadium and later generations just built new stuff on top of the stadium and preserved the form. Today you can visit the rests of this Roman stadium underneath the piazza. 


 


After this plunge into history, you might want to go to the roof top terrace of the Hotel Raphael, if you have not had enough breathtaking roof top views, yet.

Or, if you are there in the summer and a roof top might be too hot, go to the Chiostro di Bramante. (Via Arco della Pace, 5) this is a former monastry turned museum. It as a lovely shady courtyard where you can sit and have a drink.

Then walk down via dei Coronari. It is a beautful little street with many little boutiques and antique shops. There you find the Gelateria del Teatro which has wonderful ice cream. Try the white chocolate and basil or the raspberry sage! If you turn right at the end of the street you will arrive at Castel St. Angelo. Enjoy walking across the bridge towards this castle. The angel statues on the bridge were done by Bernini and every one of them is carrying one of Christ’s torture instruments. Visit the castle if you like. It offers nice views.

Return to via Coronari towards Piazza Navona, keep going straight and enter the archway at Piazza delle Cinque Lune into Via di Sant'Agostino. If the church at the beginning of the street (Sant'Agostino) is open, go inside and see the Caravaggio painting there. If not just walk down via delle Coppolle.
Keep going until your reach piazza Maddalena do not miss the litte church Santa Maddalena, of course. It is a dream of Italien Rokoko at its finest.




















But there is another must on this piazza: Gelateria San Crispino. (I know you just had an ice-cream. But what the hack! You are in Rome and I officially entitle you to have as much ice cream as you can get.) The service there is unfriendly and they do not give you wipped cream, but the ice is fantastic. Turn around the corner and you are in via del Pantheon which leads you directly to the Pantheon! Yes! The Pantheon is amazing. it is an original Roman temple, that got transformed into a church.

By now you will need an aperitivo. Ok, the piazza della Rotonda is very touristy, but it is great to sit and people-watch.
Take a rest. Relax. Meditate about the fact that your sitting in front of a building that is 2000 years old. This is the special Rome feeling: being aware of eternity and at the same time of you own finiteness.

Gathered some power to see some more art? Just walk once around the Pantheon and down via Palombella until you reach Piazza Eustachio, a lovely little piazza where you could have great and famous coffee at café Sant'Eustachio (a bit overrated in my opinion, but fun) or (at some other occasion, not now, we are between aperitivo and dinner!) eat one of the best pizza by the slice at Zaza. Go to the right up via della Dogana Vecchia until you reach the church San Luigi dei Francesi on your right. Be sure to be there before 19h and admire another of the many Caravaggio paintings hanging in Roman churches.

If that gives you appetite for dinner, walk back towards  via delle Coppolle. Rurn right into Piazza delle Coppolle keep going straight, the streeet than curves left into via dei Spagnioli where you will find my all-time favorite restaurant "Il Bacaro", Of course, you have called before to make a reservation.   +39 06 6872554 http://ilbacaroroma.com/
You can romantically sit outside und enjoy a very Roman feeling.


After this you will be happy and tired. Treat yourself to a taxi to go home. It took me a year not to get lost when I wanted to go to and from this restaurant in the middle of the confusing network of tiny streets of the centro storico. Be sure to talk to the taxi driver to bond with him and keep him from cheating you. I always ask them if they are Romans and what their favorite piazza is. The ride should not cost you more than 16 Euro.

Sweet Roman dreams!