4 Days of Eternal Bliss: The Best of Rome for my Friends: Day one

I guess you have noticed by now, that I am profoundly and utterly in love with Rome and that I got to know it pretty well. Furthermore, I am the self-declared queen of leisure management. I am a truffel pig. I always find the best places and the best things to do - everywhere. It is rather easy and lot's of fun to do that in Rome. That is why I came up with this plan that will help you experience and enjoy some days (of course, a week or two, or three or a year or a life-time would be better!) in Rome to the fullest.

If you follow my plan, I promise you that you too will fall in love with Rome. You will bath in beauty, eat divine ice cream, drink fantastic cappuccino in the most scenic places, and enjoy pasta that will make you want to break down and cry with joy. 

I can only give you a rough guide here. If you walk through Rome with open eyes and an open heart you will always discover much more. Rome is eternal discovery. That is one of the reasons I love it so much. On my own discovery tours through my city of the soul I make it a rule to at least walk into three churches a day and sneak into backyards. The program that I will suggest here can be used in a modular way. You pick and choose according to your interests, desires, and of course, the season and the weather. You know...go to more museums if it rains...take many, many ice cream and pizza breaks with kids. In the summer I encourage you to get up really early, yes, 6 is really nice, explore until the heat becomes too much, have a long lunch, take a nap, hide in a climatized museum and continue to run around in the evening and the balmy night. (see. http://melavaco.blogspot.ch/2017/03/my-roman-morning-walks-bikes.html)

Movies to watch to get into Roman Mode

Before even going to Rome I recommend you to see the Woody Allen movie  „From Rome with Love“ or the all-time classic „Roman Holidays“ or  "Dolce Vita"(a bit slow for today's tasts)  or „Eat, Pray, Love“ or „Caro Diario“ or „Gladiator" or our new favorite and ultimate Roma movie "La Grande Bellezza".

Useful Apps

Yes, my iphone apps helped me a lot during my discovery of Rome. "sygic Travel" is great because it gives you a list with all sight-seeing places, it has an off-ine map and it even helps you time your day. "Where Rome" gives you great advice on events. If you have wi-fi access on your phone, the bus app "Citymapper" is a must. It guides you to the next bus stop, provides you with itineraries, and tells you when the next bus will come. I love it.

Getting around

You will walk a lot in Rome, so bring really comfortable shoes and stamina. If you are brave enough, you might consider renting a bike (see my post on biking Roma).

When to go

The best time to go to Rome is spring or fall, September is still summer and you can even go to the beaches in Ostia. 

The Romans love october. They are so greatful that the big heat is over that they even invented a term of indearment for this month in Romanesco: ottobrate. Usually it rains the most in November. The advantage is that there are less tourists in town. 

December is lovely with many nice events like concerts in churches and great christmas lights. Januar is good for the sales (starting around Jan. 6) and there are also less tourists. 

The Roman carneval in februar is fun. Spring starts in March and spring in Rome is simply breathtaking. If you happen to be there for the week-end of Pentecoste do not miss the rain of rose petals in the Pantheon. In order to remember the tongues of fire of the holy ghost, Roman fire men through down sacks of rose petals from the hole in the roof of the Pantheon. It is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen in my life. Go there to the mess at 10.30. At the end of the mess the rain of roses starts. Better not skip the mess since after 11 it gets very crowded and hard to get inside. Stay inside a while after the rain to avoid getting crushed on your way out with people pressing in and out at the same time.

I guess, what I am actually saying that is is always great to go to Rome. Even in the hot, hot, hot summer, because than there is less traffic, there is fun stuff to do with many interesting events like Estate Romano, the movie festival on Tiber island, the opera in the Caracalla baths, and all the discotheks that have moved to out-door locations. My favorit for salsa dancing is the Tropical (www.fiesta.it)

My favorite outdoor Salsa place: il Tropical in EUR

 

Where to stay

The perfect place to stay in Roma it the B&B „Mecenate Rooms“ www.mecenate-rooms.it. Why is this place perfect? Well, it is in the appartement house where I used to live, it has great design, fair prices, and is at the perfect location right behind the lovely park that leads to the Colosseum. 

From the airport you can take a taxi for 50 Euros. The trains kosts 16 Euros. There are also cheaper Buses, but I once spent 2 hours in the traffic in one of those and will never do it again. 

You might want to get the Roma Card at a kiosk or the tourist information at the station, that is valid for 3 days of public transport plus entrance int major attractions like the Colosseum.
At Termini you simply go versus the church Santa Maria Maggiore go down  Via Merulana and turn right into the most beautiful street in the world:  via Mecenate. And at the end of the street at the corner at Nr. 79 you are already arrived.

 

The most beautiful street in the world: via Mecenate

Alternatively, a nice place to stay in a great location near Campo dei Fiori is the B&B of my friend Cristiano di Mattei http://www.casettacampodefiori.it/index.php?lang=fr .
He is an artist and has his studio in the same street. You might even consider turning one of your favorite Rome photos into a very unique piece of art like this one:

  
I recently came across a B&B in a 800 years old tower right behind Piazza Venezia http://www.torrecolonna.it/. I have not been there, but the Tripadviser ratings are excellent and sleeping is a tower sounds like good fun.

Day One: Get into the Groove

Mecenate Room gives you coupons for breakfast at Re di Tramezzini the bar at the other side of the street. They have good Cappuccino and freshly pressed orange juice for you (Spremuta). The  pastry (Cornetto) is a bit dry…like in most places in Roma.  On Saturdays the Re is closed and you get breakfast at Panella at the end of the street on via Merulana. I love Panella even though it is expensive and the staff is not very friendly. The cappuccino is good an you can sit outside and watch people.

Let’s imagine you start your trip on a Monday. After breakfast at the Re you only have to stroll down the path in the middle of Parco Traiano and you already see the Colosseum right before you. Fantastic. I love this parc! My little son Francesco learned to ride his bicycle there and my older son Emilio always climbed on the trees.

After the parc you walk uphill slightly to the right. At the next street you might want to have a  second cappuccino at Oppio Café. If you sit outside (and pay much more (5 euro) than on the counter: 1,50 euro) you can stare at the Colosseum from above. Keep going straight, lightly to the left, enjoy the view over the place in front of the Colosseum and at the Forum, walk down via del Colosseo until you hit via Cavour, cross it and keep straight on via Re dè Conti  that brings you to the Salita del Grillo just behind the Forums of Augusto, Nerva, and Traiano. 

When you you reach via Nazionale you turn right down the hill until you come to Palazzo Valentini. And this is where your amazing introduction into Roman history starts. Do not forget to book ahead, because you can only buy the tickets online. http://www.palazzovalentini.it   
If you only have time for one museum in Rome, I would recommend this one. It is also excellent if you are travelling with kids.

The cool thing is that it is open on mondays (closed on tuesdays), when many other museums are closed. They have guided tours in English, French, and Italian. In this multimedia museum you will see the house of a rich Roman family that lies buried under the main building. How amazing is that?! 

You see the private thermal baths that were part of this lavish mansion. A light show illustrates you where the water ran and where the pools were. You see a mosaic that has been destroyed by an earth quake and they will reconstruct it with light.

It is the most impressive and fun way to get a feel for Rome as a big layered cake of history: Roman houses on the base layer, medieval remains in the middle, followed by parts of a Renaissance palace and topped by a 18^th century Palace that today houses a public administration.

If you take the visit at nine in the morning you will be on the first level of your new Roman state of mind at about eleven. A good time to stroll across the street from Palazzo Valentino, go straight for a bit down via die San Marcello, turn right at via dei Crociferi until you hit…tatata: Fontana di Trevi. Well, you do have to see it, although, I have to admit that most of the time it is a touristic nightmare. The fountain is, of course, is fantastic, but the crowds are just way too much. Be very careful with your wallet here, pickpockets love this place! 

If you can go there at seven in the morning, you will have a chance to be almost alone and that makes such a big difference. I know…you are on holiday and do not want to get up this early…but believe me, especially in the summer Rome in the early morning is hard to beat. It is still cool, nobody is there, the atmosphere is magical and the light is soft and promising. Right! Early morning walks are one of my favourite things to do in Rome.

Alone at the Fontana di Trevi at 7 am. Pure delight!

Piazza Navona without the croweds. Splendido!

All alone with beauty - Rome in the summer at 7 a.m.

Ok, so you did your touristic duty and admired Fontana di Trevi. From there you can go to Piazza San Silvestre. Do not miss the church of the same name and have a drink at the drinking fountain (nasone) just in front of it. Talking of drinking fountains: they really are one of the big advantages of Rome. You do not need to run around with a drinking bottle. The water from the Nasoni is always fresh and good. And it is fun to drink there. 

Than walk down via Belsiana until you hit via Condotti: You notice…you have arrived in fashion heaven: Gucci, Prada, Ferragamo, Fendi. Enjoy the sight of all these beautiful and expensive cloths and shoes. And do not be shy to enter into some of these temples of luxury. At the end of Condotti you will arrive at Piazza di Spagna with the famous Spanish steps. Have a drink at the fountain Barcaccia: it is the aqua vergine that the Romans brought to town via aquaducts. The Romans were big water experts. The said that the aqua vergine tasts kind of sweet. They had lot's of other categories to describe the diffferent waters they channelled, like e.g. "fatty" or "pine nut flavored" . Fatty water? Interesting, hm?! Ok, I stop here and promise to do an extra blogpost on water and fountains in Roma.

By now you must be starving and help is so close…so delicious….and soooo cheap. Go to via della Croce 8. Il Pastificio is a pasta factory and every day starting at 13h they give you the choice between two classic Roman pasta dishes for the incredible amount of four Euros!!! If you are lucky they have Carbonara…their best dish! Enjoy this funky meal together with the crowd of shop assistants from Gucci, business men, and Japanese tourists. White wine or water come with the meal and are for free. For a fantastic dessert just walk down via della Croce and go to Pompi were you can by the best Tiramisu of tutta Roma.

With this massive intake of carbs you will have enough energy to climb the Spanish steps turn left on the top and have the seminal, drop-dead beautiful Roman panoramic walk of all times over to the Pinco. This is a wonderful balcony at the edge of the Villa Borghese Parc that offers a breathtaking view over Rome and Piazza del Popolo. 

Hang out a while and suck it all up. If you had enough walk back down to Piazza del Popolo, one of my favourite Piazzas in the city. If you crave some more art just go into the church at the entrance: Santa Maria del Popolo. There you will find the mosaic of a kneeling skeleton and two Caravaggio masterpieces: the conversion of St. Paul and the Crucifixion of St. Peter.

Sit down at the fountain at the center of the piazza for some people watching. By the way : this the piazza were in the older days executions took place. Admire the lovely obelisk. Romans loved stealing them in Egypt and that is why today you will find 13 obelisks in Roma while Cairo only has three! Later Popes liked to re-arrange obelisks so they would guide Christian pilgrims to major churches pilgrims had to visit: Consequently, there are obelisks in front of St. Peter, Santa Maria Maggiore, San Giovanni, Santa Maria sopra Minerva etc.

Thirsty, a bit tired, overwhelmed? Just walk to the street via Babuino to your left and enter the courtyard of the magnificent Hôtel de la Russie. Yes, it is a five-star hotel, yes, you will pay 6 Euro for your espresso, and yes, it will be sooo worth it. The courtyard is a real oasis of cool and green in this part of the city. Very relaxing and they will give you fine cookies with your coffee and you will get to see beautiful people and enjoy the scenery of lush, green plants. Only go there in the summer if you can sit outside, the inside bar is not so spectacular. 

After this luxury break you can continue your shopping spree down via Babuino. I really like the Fratelli Rossetti shoe store in this street. You can pass by in the parallel street, via Margutta, where the Audrey Hepburn movie “Vacanze Romane” had been shot and Fellini used to live.

Time for some ice cream: Pass by Fatamorgana in via Laurina 10. They have exciting flavors.

Continue your stroll through this beautiful shopping area and than it is already time for your first Roman aperitivo. And you know, I will show you the most beautiful place for this: The roof top terrace of the First Luxuray Art Hotel in via Vantaggio 14. The view from this bar is really, really hard to beat. 

 

By now you should feel a bit tipsy from your Spritz and all the beauty you have seen so far and you deserve a break at the hotel. So go back to via del Corso and find the Nr. 85. In general please be careful in public transport. Pickpockets love the crowded Roman buses! Some guys like cutting it open with a knive to get your stuff. You can get off right at the first stop of via Labicana under Parco Traiano (close to the Colisseum), hang out a bit in the parc before return to the B&B (There is a charming outdoor bar run by an old lady - Nunzia) or just rest a bit in your room.

Hungry again? Dinner time. I have two options for you...or maybe even three:
1. The glamoor solution is right across the street with a stunning view of the Colosseum and the stunning prices that come with this kind of scenery. I have not tried it, yet, but I would love to: Palazzo Manfredi is a hotel. Its restaurant "Aroma" has a Michelin star and if you want that grande bellezza VIP feeling go for it:
+39 06 97615109
2. Also only a few blocks away is Tattoria Monti (Via di San Vito 13), which has lovely food and good looking waiters. The place is tiny, so reserve: +39 06 446 6573
3. Osteria Monteverde has very innovative food, a very authentic atmosphere and yes, good-looking waiters agian. It is a bit more difficult to reach. They are one of my great favorites. You can take the tram 8 from Piazza Venezia, get off at Gianicolense/ San Camillo from there it is only a 2 minutes walk to Via Pietro Cartoni, 16. Of course, you have a reservation: 06 53273887

And here ends our first day of eternal bliss.
Buona Notte, principessa!